Monthly Archives: April 2013

Making Compost Tea

Making compost tea

Compost Tea, Day One

Over the years I have toyed with making many concoctions for the garden.  One of my favorite things I do is make compost tea…among many other teas!

It’s truly astonishing how many diverse beneficial, active, aerobic microbes there are in compost tea!  Really good compost tea can contain as many as 100 trillion bacteria per 1 ml.  WOW! Do I sound excited about compost tea?  Well I am!  Compost tea has many benefits for the garden.  Insect and disease control and plant health are the most important reasons for creating tea for your garden beauties.  It inoculates your soil with microbes. You can create it with a very small amount of compost if you don’t have much available to you.  It can also inoculate the leaves of your plants, which is something you can’t do with dry compost.  Compost teas helps to combat powdery mildew and controls insects such as spider mites.  We have seen decreased numbers of aphids on plum trees when using a spray of compost tea.  That’s something to toot about!

There are two methods of creating tea.   Non-aerated compost tea and aerated.  I prefer aerating my compost tea.  When it has air moving around, the microbes are more active and when you spray it on the leaves they ‘stick’ better to the surfaces.  So that’s the one we will talk about!!

To make a good tea, you need a few things to get started.

Air pump.  Like the ones used for fish tanks will do.

Air hose and a bubbler (preferable 2-3 bubblers)

5 gallon bucket

Whoo Hoo…There’s your kit!  Now for the ingredients!

Always use mature compost.  If compost has not decomposed fully, it can be harmful to your plants when making compost tea.  It should smell like good clean earth!  This if VERY important!

If you don’t make your own compost, then bagged will do, but your own compost is best.   Always look for compost that hasn’t sat out in the hot sun baking in bags for centuries!!  You know…Walmart parking lots!

8 cups of compost

16×16” of cheese cloth or other similar material

Tie for making a tea bag, I use natural jute

2 Tablespoons unsulfured blackstrap molasses

1 handful of kelp meal

5 gallons of non-chlorinated water (letting water sit out for 24 hours will work)

Place your bubblers in the bucket of non-chlorine water and place a rock on them to hold them at the bottom of the bucket.  You need the air to circulate the brew from the bottom up!  Add your molasses.  Place compost and kelp in cloth and tie to the top.  Toss your ‘tea bag’ into the percolating water, lightly set a lid, allowing air flow and let it brew for 3-5 days.  Brew should be kept out of the sun.  Once the brew is finished; it should be used within 8 hours.  Strain if you are using a sprayer.  I like to just pour it into a watering can and pour right over the top of plants when I am in a hurry, but it will go a lot further if you use a sprayer.  You won’t need to dilute your tea, but if you choose to make sure you never use chlorinated water.  You went to all that work, no sense in killing those microbes!  I only feed every three weeks to once a month, but there is no reason you can’t spray every week for plants that need a little extra love!

You can add other ingredients to your compost tea if you like.  Molasses, fruit juices and kelp promote more bacteria growth, while fish fertilizers, seed meals, humic acids and rock dusts promote more fungal growth.  Fungal teas are great for orchards and strawberries!  At the end of the brewing process you can add mycorrhizal fungi if you are doing a soil application.   Just remember that when using a mycorrhizae, it is only for soil and it will die if applied to leaf surfaces. Try a few different ingredients every time you concoct a brew and record what worked the best for you, but you should always use molasses and of course, compost!!

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Unexpected Frosts!

Wow! Time has gotten away from me this spring! Between transplanting starts for our nursery, planting our own garden, and just keeping up this spring with the general spring chores and just life itself, I realized I haven’t written a blog in a while.
With this years unusual weather we have had, I am thankful I always have frost blankets ready to go at a moments notice to protect my crops. Our valley’s typical last frost date is April 15th. Well, this year has proven to us that Mother Nature can change her mind when she wants with a late light frost just morning April 18th. We have had a very mild March which tempted many of us to plant tomatoes, peppers and other ‘warm’ season crops….I do it every year, but I am ready to drop the cloth! There are several types of cloth, or also known as row cover. Look for ‘frost’ protection, like 50%. This will give you protection up to 8 degrees, which is good enough for a frost. You can double up your cover if you are expected temperatures to drop below 28 degrees. I cover even if the temperatures are in going to be in the low 40’s the cover goes on. Warm season crops are just that…Warm Weather lovers. When these vegetables are exposed to cold night temperatures tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash and especially cucumbers,they will stress, sometimes drop flowers, growth is halted, and they can become weak, which can make them more susceptible to diseases. This can be a little work at times, but well worth it in the long run. The cover should be removed during the day so the plants can absorb the sunshine unless the days are very chilly and windy. Keeping them covered is fine if for only a day or two. Most frost blankets will last for years and is a well worth while investment to protect your tender little crops! Today, the covers are being folded and put away (again) in hopes to not have to bring them out again this year, but if needed, I am ready! Watch your weather reports and expect lower temperatures then what is predicted and your early planted crops will pay off!

Frost Blanket/Row Cover

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