Author Archives: Ali

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About Ali

Gardening is a peaceful place for me. I have loved it since I was a very young child. I want to share with you my journey in my small half acre lot in the middle of our city what you can achieve, such as gowing a garden, orcharding, caring for bees, goats and poultry. Going back to the simple life. Using what you have to the best of your ability.

Growing & Preserving Currants

Have you thought about growing currants?  Currants are prized for their distinctive flavor in juice, jam, jelly, pies  and desserts.  They are rich in Vitamin C.  The smell of the blossoms in the spring have a heavenly sweet fruity scent that make you want to park yourself with a good book and a chair right next to them.  If you don’t grow them for the fruit, you should just for the smell!  You can pick from black, red or white currants.  Try a few of each!

Currants are cold hardy and they will grow in most areas.  If you live in area like I do here in Southern Utah, picking your spot where they receive dappled light and afternoon shade is best.  Our temperatures can reach in the triple digits for three months straight, and the direct sun isn’t the best growing conditions for currants with high temperatures like that.  Cooler temps, full sun is fine.  Soil is important for your currants.  They don’t like to  live in clay soil and sandy soil drains to quickly, so amending the soil is a must.  Add compost and peat moss to the planting spot to give your currants a nice home.  Currants can live to 10-15 years.  So pick your spot wisely.

I fertilize with an organic food called Acid Mix.  It not only feeds the plants, but also helps lower the pH.  If your pH is already low I would just use an All Purpose fertilizer.  Currants like a pH in a range of 5.5 to 7.o. I like to apply fertilizer in March when buds are swelling and again in mid-May to give the fruit a boost. I just sprinkle a cup around each base and cover with a layer of compost and water in.  Side dressing with compost through the year will improve growth and plant vigor.

If you live in a low rain fall area make sure your currants get adequate water supply from bloom time until the end of harvest.  Add enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches, then let the soil dry out somewhat before you water again.  Excessive water may suffocate the roots.

Prune when the plants are dormant in late winter.  Don’t over prune!  Black currants produce best on 1-year-old wood whereas red currants produce most of their fruit on 2 – and 3-year old wood.  Currants can be grown as a fan-shaped bush on a trellis.  Plants trained this way look attractive and produce a good crop of well-colored fruit.

Currants will start to produce a light crop the year after planting.  I like to purchase 2-year-old bushes to get a head start. The berries will ripen over a 2-week period.  By the time they reach 3-4 years  plants can bear full crops.  A yield of 4 to 6 quarts per mature bush.

Make More!  You can propagate currants from 1-year-old wood during the dormant season.  Make cuttings from 6 to 8 inch long pieces.  Make a flat bottom cut just below a bud, and slanted top cut about 1/2 inch about a bud.  Dip each bottom end into a rooting compound and set them into well-drained soil in a greenhouse.  keep moist and out of direct light.  I cover mine with a shade cloth.  Come spring time you will have roots forming and you can transplant carefully into a larger pot or outside when the weather warms.

Currants are generally self-fertile, and you only need one cultivar for fruit production.  However, both black and red  will produce larger fruit if you plant more than one cultivar and have cross-pollination.  So this is your excuse to have more than more variety!

Dried currants are as easy as picking the fruit and letting it dry.  They are like raisins, only better!  I like to use the black currants for drying.  Just simply pick the ripe fruit, wash and set in a food dryer.  If the weather is warm and dry I like to use my outside hanging rack.  Otherwise if it’s  humid I will use my electric dehydrator.

Red Currant Jelly

4 pounds red currants, 4 3/4 cups granulated sugar, 7 oz water, juice of 1 small lemon.  Rinse the currant in cold water, stem them.  Put them into a preserving pan and bring to a boil with the water.  Cover th pan and let the berries soften over low heat for 5 min.  Collect the juice by pouring this preparation into a fine chinois sieve, pressing the fruit lightly with the back of a skimmer.  Now filter the juice again by pouring through a cheesecloth that you have wet and wrung out.  Pour the juice into a preserving pan with the lemon juice and sugar.  Boil for 5 min.  Skim carefully. Check the set.  Put the jelly into jars immediately and seal.  makes about 4 1/2 cups of the most beautiful jelly ever!

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How Much Do I Water?

What's more relaxing than watering on a Sunday evening.

One question that I probably get asked the most is “how much do I water?”.  That’s really a loaded question.  With out being in your garden, no one can tell you how much to water your garden,  or flower bed needs.  Each garden has its own idiosyncrasies that must be observed.   My water needs in my garden has changed over the years.  I have built the soil up with organic matter and I have literally changed the structure of the soil.  From clay to good draining soil.   Plants need water to absorb nutrients in dissolved form starting at the roots.  If the plant is deprived of water the cells in the plant start to shrink from the tips down, burning the ends and making the plant stressed and more likely to be unhealthy.  Adequate water is essential for the plants survival. 

Get to know your soil.  Dig into your soil to find out what kind of soil you have.  It makes a big difference in your drainage.  Clay-layden soil has special watering challenges.  In dense clay , little room exists for air to pass through and reach the roots.  Clay drains very slowly and compacts easily.  This is the type of soil I have.  It took many years of adding soil amendments to get proper drainage.  I think it’s the hardest soil to work with.  When the surface seems dry, you could be drowning the roots below, so you should always stick a finger in the soil to test for moisture.  Sandy soil has other challenges.  Although the drainage is very good, you may have to water 4 times as much as someone with clay soil.  Because of the quick drainage, nutrients are lost quick too.  Both clay and sandy soils can be turned into a loam by mixing in loads of organic material, such as compost.

Keep water percolating in the zone.  The plants roots systems are the most critical area of watering.  The depth varies among plants.  In general, we are talking about the first  6 to 8 inches of the soil with vegetable gardening.  Keeping that section moist prevents the plants from becoming parched by thirst or stressed from binge drinking (giving them lots of water and letting them dry out).  With good garden soil, you should be able to squeeze a little dirt into a clump that will break up easily if you gently bounce it in your hand.

Mulch your garden to conserve water in your soil by shielding the ground from the hot  sun rays that burn off moisture.  Thick layers of mulch also helps keep weeds at bay which also rob your plants from moisture and nutrients. 

Recent transplants need frequent, light watering to accommodate for their shallow roots and ease the shock of being pulled from their pots.  Newly sowed seeds need a light sprinkle often to keep them moist so they can germinate.  Steady watering is also critical at the time of flowering and fruit formation.  For some crops, like tomatoes, yields may improve, but some flavor may be lost with too much watering as fruit ripens. With carrots and cabbages, for example, watering should be reduced as the crop reaches maturity to keep the vegetables from splitting.  Once plants are established, more harm than good is done by giving them a daily sprinkling.  We want plant roots to go deep once they are more established.  Water deeply, less frequently and the roots will go down searching for water rather than looking up to the surface for water which will cause them to dry out faster. 

Early morning, and evening are usually the best times for watering because the cooler the temperatures, the less evaporation.  These times are particularly good when using an overhead sprinkler.   Under bright sunshine, water droplets intensify the rays and can singe the leaves.  I like to give my plants an overhead sprinkle every once in a while to “wash” the dust off early morning, even though I use drip tape in my garden for my main watering.  Night time is also not the best time to water  with a sprinkler because  the leaves stay wet and that can encourage disease.  However, like my area being so arid I will turn my drip on overnight at a very slow rate to water deeply and there is little evaporation that way.

Group your plants in the garden with plants that require the same water needs.  For example, lettuce needs plenty of water and many herbs are drought tolerant.  It really wouldn’t make sense to intermingle them together.  By grouping plants with the same water needs you won’t be wasting water.

Watering pots is a whole other creature.  Pots don’t have large amounts of soil surrounding them to help keep them moist.  They are above ground and heat up quicker during warm days.  And they have better drainage.  During the spring months when the pots are newly planted the roots haven’t taken up a large amount of pot space, they don’t require as much water as they will later when the roots have grown into a mass.  Usually once a day is enough.  But come summer months, depending on the size of the pots I find that I need to water them twice a day.  Watch them closely to see what they require.  One hot day can completely wipe out some of your back porch beauties if you skip a watering

According the a common rule of thumb, a garden needs about 1 inch of water per week.  Now this can be tricky!  You have to use common sense here.  If you have had winds, your soil will dry out quicker and it may require water more often.  If you have had rain……..Turn off the water.  If your soil is sandy and it drains faster than you can say “rain”, more than and inch a week might be necessary.  The temperatures will affect the amounts of water you need.  We can reach 110 degrees here in Southern Utah for  weeks at a time and the plants will look wilted and yet they were just water earlier in the morning and the ground it’s still wet.  Plants may do this to protect themselves by exposing less surface to the sun and conserving water.  But of course, if the soil is dry, you better give it a drink so it can survive the day!

Be water wise!

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Farmers Markets

 

Farmers’ markets are one of the oldest forms of direct marketing by small farms.  Initially, people would farm the land simply to provide food for themselves and families, but eventually farming grew more intensive and farmers’ markets were born.  Over time farmers’ markets saw a decline in popularity due to urbanisation and newer, larger farming techniques with the advent of supermarkets, people grew used to purchasing their produce prepackaged and lost interest, in general, with fresh food.  The public seemed to no longer worry about seasonality with the advances of worldwide transport and the use of chemicals and preservatives.  We seem to be turning a new leaf once again.  We now, or should be concerned with where our food comes from.  Farmers’ markets are on the rise again.  I am sure this is mostly due to the growing consumer interests in obtaining “fresh” produce directly from the farm, again.  Isn’t it interesting how we seem to go through trends over and over again.  Farmers’ markets allow consumers to have access to locally grown, farm fresh produce and more and more organically grown.  Local farmers’ markets are a great place to promote community relationships between the growers and the buyers.  If you have abundant amounts of produce you might consider participating in your local market.  Most markets can be easily joined and the cost is very minimal.  I have paid only $5 per market for the last four years at my local markets.  You can’t complain at that. You can contact your Cooperative Extensive Service for more information on farmers’ markets in your area. 

If you participate make sure to harvest your produce as close to the market as possible and check with your markets organizer for any regulations.  Supporting your local farmers’ market is so important for your community either by being a vendor or a customer.  We love our local gardeners/farmers and we want to make sure they will be able to provide for us, when we don’t produce our own, so we don’t have to rely on produce from out of the country. 

If you have never been to a farmers’ market you might be surprised at the variety of produce you find weekly and seasonally.  Be sure to bring plenty of small bills and arrive early for the best selection.  You might just find a new Saturday activity to enjoy that’s healthy for you too!

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Making Compost

Compost is a beautiful thing for gardeners!

If I could only put one thing into my garden it would be compost.  I have been composting for twenty years now.  When I first started to garden I would just simply put the plants into the soil and expect them to grow.  My gardens have since improved dramatically thanks to compost.  When people come to me and ask what they should do to get their garden going I always say ” compost, compost, compost”.  I think it is the first step!  Composting can be as simple, or as complicating as you make it.  I like to compost everything.  Whereas some like to add manures into the garden without composting, I will compost it first.  I feel this way I still get the benefits of the manure without it robbing the soil of nitrogen and it also kills weed seeds that I would rather not deal with later.  Composting choices are numerous, ranging from worm composting to what I call “dump and run”.  Pick a spot in your yard for your compost pile, ideally near your garden for easier access and where the sun hits it for most of the day.  You can just simply build a pile right on the ground with nothing around it, or you could use pallets, a wire fence enclosure or something of the sort to encase it for a more tidy look.   I don’t like to make composting rocket science.  For one, I don’t have the time, and two I’m not a rocket scientist!  What I have available at the time is what I use.  Water near by is a must because if it’s not…..well, we have a tendency to neglect giving our compost heaps enough water that it requires and if we have to drag a bucket it probably won’t get done.  At least that would be in my case!  One thing to get out-of-the-way and I can’t stress enough!  DO NOT use synthetic fertilizers (chemical) to heat up your pile!  Compost is made when billions of microbes  digest the waste you provide for them.  Think about it.  Would you eat a cup of synthetic fertilizer?  Of course not, because it would be lethal.  Yes, it will decompose with synthetic fertilizer, but I prefer not to add such things that will go in the garden and then my body.  Carbon, Water and nitrogen are the key ingredients.  I like to have bare earth beneath my compost to allow worms and other organisms to get into the pile.  For better drainage you can add straw or twigs for the first bottom layer.  Start layering greens (nitrogen) and browns (carbon).  Like I said I use what I have.  If I have loads of fresh grass clipping I don’t add much water, because there is enough moisture.   Add kitchen scrapes, leaves, garden waste or wood chips for layers.  When adding a new layer I like to add a handful of blood meal and bone meal.  Every layer gets a little stir. Your compost needs to be moist, not soggy to break down.  Like a wrung out sponge.  I cover my pile with burlap to help keep the moisture and heat in.  You can turn your pile every few days, every few weeks or just let it sit and rot.   The moral of the story is-everything rots.  The hotter the pile the faster it will decompose.   Chopping or shredding your materials also helps speed things up.  Water occasionally.  Nitrogen materials consist of:  grass clippings, kitchen waste, coffee grounds, eggshells and chicken manure.  Carbon materials:  dried plants, straw, newsprint, cardboard, dryer lint and wood chips.  Things you shouldn’t compost:  meat, bones, milk products, diseased plants, weeds with seed heads, walnut leaves and roots from pernicious weeds.  Some people add wood ashes and that’s okay if your soil pH is low (acid).  I don’t because our area has a high alkaline count.  If your compost is soggy and/or stinky, turn the pile to aerate and you can add some dry peat moss to tame it.  Things that I keep near my compost pile:  Pitch fork for turning, blood and bone meal, machete for chopping,  compost thermometer and burlap.   An unknown author once said; You know you’re a real gardener when you think compost is a fascinating subject.

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